Puerto Viejo – No para cualquier persona

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La vida en Puerto Viejo no es la vibra que todos amarán, pero tal vez usted se enamorá!

Hay muchos mitos y falsedades que hay acerca de Puerto Viejo, cosas sobre el Caribe que les cuentan a menudo a los turistas en San José o en hoteles de la costa pacífica.

O, si usted está buscando información específica, haga clic en el tema deseado: El Clima, Dinero, Salud & Seguridad, Tours & Actividades, Voluntariados o El Turismo Sostenible

¿Por qué quiere vivir ahí? No hay nada ahí!

Eso fue un comentario de un expatriado americano que vive en el Valle Central de Costa Rica, donde la mayoría de los expatriados vive. En cierto modo, tiene razón. Puerto Viejo no tiene campos de golf, puertos deportivos o campos de tenis, casi no hay piscinas y muy pocos hoteles tienen aire acondicionado.

Hay muchos chismes y muchas verdades a medias sobre el Caribe de Costa Rica, por eso me decidí compartir mis propias observaciones después de vivir aquí por algunos años.

Personalmente, a mí me gusta como es, porque redució el desarrollo a un mínimo, sin "la plataforma de Disney". Se dirige más al viajero autóctono y yo creo que los chismes y mitos han beneficiado a muchos que se decidieron vivir aquí.

Solo hay negros ahí.

De hecho una investigación recién del Ministerio de Salud mostró que aproximadamente 80 % de los habitantes son de la población indígena BriBrí. Pero ellos suelen vivir afuera del pueblo y no son muy visibles. Tal vez 30-40 % de la restante población local son afrocaribeños, que son descendientes de trabajadores jamaicanos que llegaron aqui hace solamente un siglo. Su presencia agrega una vibra muy interesante a la cultura local. El caribe no sería lo que es sin su presencia. El resto de la población son ticos y un mosaíco grande de expatriados que vinieron principalmente de Europa, Sudamérica y Canada. Casi todos que vienen de los E.E.U.U. son totalmente izquierdistas. En el último censo al principio del 2002, se representaron 49 países diferentes en solamente un poco más de 2000 personas.

Todos ahí son malditos hippies fumando mota y abrazando árboles.

Sí, hay mucha gente "informal". Su presencia por los años ha sido valioso para mantener el lugar tan relajado y siempre interesante. Si usted mira a cualquier lugar donde le apetecería vivir en los E.E.U.U., en Canada y muchas partes de Europa (por ejemplo San Francisco y NYC vs. Oklahoma o Arkansas), verá que estos lugares tienen una cultura alternativa grande donde mucha gente se siente cómoda vivir. Con referencia a los que abrazan los árboles: gracias a (en lo que crea) que existen. Quedan muchos árboles para apreciar.

Siempre llueve.

Sí, esto es el bosque lluvioso y sabe qué? Hay lluvias. Pero si usted mira a la cantidad anual de las lluvias, notará que llueve más en los lugares populares en la costa pacífica que en el Caribe, este diagrama compara las diferentes zonas en Costa Rica. Notará que el Caribe Sur es una de las zonas más secas del país!

La diferencia más grande es que en el Caribe, la lluvia se distribuye más por todo el año. Además, la mayoría de las lluvias viene en la noche y normalmente es bienvenida. Haga clic aqui para más información sobre el clima local.

Las carreteras están en mal estado y es realmente peligroso.

Después de haber visitado todas las partes de Costa Rica, puedo asegurarle que las carreteras aquí estan en el mismo mal estado que en cualquier otro lugar. En realidad una gran parte de las carreteras es un poco mejor, porque Limón es una ciudad con puerto y la carretera principal para los camiones es de Limón a San José. Por eso la carretera ahí es bastante buena y eso aplica para más de 2/3 del viaje a Puerto Viejo (no, no es la California Interstate 5).

Sin embargo, sí, algunas carreteras en la zona están en mal estado y llenas de agujeros. Pero si tiene cuidado, puede pasar con cualquier vehículo. Encima, el viaje hasta aquí tiene 3 secciones, pasará por las montañas (en un nivel muy alto), luego por plantaciones de platano y piña y luego seguirá la costa de Limón a Puerto Viejo. Para la mayoría de la gente, este viaje en carro o en bus es muy agradable. Pero si usted es una de las personas que no disfruta los viajes y solamente quiere llegar a un destino en la vida, tal vez Jacó en el Pacífico sea mejor para usted. Hay vuelos regulares del aeropuerto en San José.

La página de instrucciones para llegar en carro tiene información detallada sobre conducir y los estados de las carreteras.

Hay tanto crimen ahí.

Este es uno de los mitos que me parece lo más interesante. ¿Cómo puede alguien pensar que Puerto Viejo es más peligroso que lugares como Quepos, Jacó o incluso Tamarindo? No consigo entenderlo. Ni siquiera voy a empezar a compararlo con San José. Sí, hay un componente de drogas. Pero qué ciudad no lo tiene. Si no desea tomar drogas, puede usar la única cosa que le dio fama a Nancy Reagan y "Just Say No – Simplemente diga ¡No!". Siempre ha funcionado para mi en todos los años viviendo aquí.

Creo que otra razón por la percepción de que el crimen es peor aqui es por la población africa-caribeña. La delincuencia menor es realmente un problema, pero crimenes violentos contra turistas no son la norma.

Es caliente y húmedo ahí.

Sí, es húmedo, pero a mí el Pacífico me parece mucho más caliente. Realmente la temperatura aquí es más estable y muy pocas veces es tan caliente que te sientes incapacitado. Para la mayoría de la gente, la temperatura es bastante agradable.

Es el paraíso?

Bueno, es lo más cercano al que he llegado yo en mi vida. Pero mientras vivir aquí no siempre es fácil, le puedo asegurar que siempre es interesante.

Colin on his way to the market

Autor

Artículo escrito por Colin Brownlee. Colin fui de Canada hace más de una decada con la idea de empecer una vida nueva en Costa Rica. Puerto Viejo es donde se aterrizó y donde el empezó el Hotel Banana Azul.

Comentarios de nuestros visitantes sobre Puerto Viejo, la Onda y Mitos

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What are people saying about us?

Pee Jay

We stayed in Playa Negra 8 days and Cocles 8 days. We didn't like the first place, but since it was so close to Banana Azul, we ate there a lot! They had the best service, great grounds and great food! We found several other nice dining places too.
We enjoyed the tiny Town, beaches and learning Spanish.
No one bothered us. Everyone is realtor and Tour Guide, ????????. We plan to return next year!!

November 27, 2017

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susie

Great article! I'm a single mum and my daughters (age 21 and 10)and I rented a car in San Jose and drove to Puerto Viejo. The roads were fantastic. We stayed in PV for 10 days before moving on to Manuel Antonio and Nicoya and I regret that we didn't stay longer. It was by far the most beautiful area with safe coves for my little one to swim compared to the punishing surf on the Pacific Side. Snorkeling was a favorite past time and you could even do it off the town beach, which is a testament to the strong eco-preservation movement prevalent in the entire country. I've never seen such clean beaches, and no garbage roadside either. There was animal life EVERYWHERE. Literally bands of monkeys and sloths hanging right outside your door. Animal rescue center was incredible. Next time we will do some tours. amaamamaa

September 11, 2017

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Guzman

Hi, me and three friends are heading to PV in a few days planning to check different beaches around the coast. We are planning to rent a car, it's a common car enough or should we rent a truck/4x4 ? I checked the driving instructions page but didn't mention road qualities outside of the road between limón and pv.

August 16, 2017

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Puerto Viejo Satellite

The getting around locally page has more info. You won't need a 4x4 unless you go well off the beaten path. More at local transport page.

August 17, 2017

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Sobrien

A regular car is fine i

August 20, 2017

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Ashley

Is the city small like Dominical, a bit larger but spread out like Uvita or larger and closer to the other like Quepos?

July 25, 2017

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Puerto Viejo Satellite

The Puerto Viejo area is quite a bit bigger than Dominical and if you count the adjoining communities such down the coast such as Playa Cocles, Punta Uva and Manzanillo (and also Cahuita) you'll find a very large variety of activities, beaches and vibes. The size of the population is similar to Quepos/Manuel Antonio area but there's a wider variety of places and things to do.

July 25, 2017

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NJ

HI I am trying to figure the best dates for carnaval 2017 in puerto viejo or limon. Which Carnaval is better?

July 24, 2017

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SP

I just returned after spending 7 amazing days in PV! Best place iv been to in my entire life, PURA VIDA!!!

April 18, 2017

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Melissa

We spent a week in Costa Rica. Only a few days in Puerto Viejo but it was our favorite place we've ever been. It was so friendly and laid back. Everyone made us feel welcomed and safe.

March 31, 2017

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Juan

Hi, I'm Juan, I'm Cuban but I have lived a long time in Sweden. Now I'm tired to live out here, I miss my caribbean sea. I worked in San Jose back in 2012-2014. My wife lived there then. We moved back to Sweden 2014 but now I'm tired to live here and I have read and heard a lot of good about PV. I like what I heard and read, and would like to live in a place like PV. I'm a dropshiper so I can work from home via internet. My questions are: Is the in PV a good internet service? Which is the higher broadband I can get? Is it expensive? Is it hard to find a house or apartment there for long term rent in PV. I mean for 6 month up to years. Are they expensive? Thanks. Juan

May 31, 2016

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Geebo

What is the busiest time of year in PV? Do reservations need to be made in mid December if travelling there?

November 26, 2015

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Puerto Viejo Satellite

Peak season starts Christmas week so it depends on what you mean by mid-December, with Christmas on a Friday this year I'd guess things are going to book up starting the previous Saturday the 19th. And some of the best places can book up at any time of the year.

November 26, 2015

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Jon from Davis CA

Hi, my wife and I would love to visit next Summer for a few weeks, but are worried about the health and safety of our 8 and 5 yr old daughters. Is there any cause for concern? We are not the night types, and plan on spending our time in nature, on the beach, and in town practicing our Spanish.

Puerto Viejo looks wonderful, but I'm not sure if it is a safe place for young children.

September 14, 2015

What are people saying about us?

Puerto Viejo Satellite

Many families with kids come here and love it! You just need to take some basic precautions that would apply almost anywhere in the world. Please read our Health and Safety page, there's lots of good advice there. There are also lots of expats who have settled here with kids and love the cultural diversity and experiences they can provide their kids. You can read more from their on our Education page.

September 14, 2015

What are people saying about us?

mac williams

hi jon- im mac. i lived in puerto 2 different times back in '09 & '02-03... i have a son who was 5 at the time- it was wonderful for him, of course he was ALLWAYS shaperoned by his mom n dad, he made a best friend-oscar,a local boy, that stuck up for him and and i trusted, in general, kids are safe there, but like anywhere need a WATCHFUL EYE at all times.theres a path under the palms skirting the sea between town and the rocking j hostel,that my boy n i traversed almost daily to a near perfect swimming hole on the beach there at rockn j's, to me, those walks were my most cherished memories,my boy would be totally absorbed hunting the little crabs, etc.- plenty of privacy- (shade) rckn j's right there and a convenience store across the street. but to give you a prime example of the possibility of danger there, my boy was 'searching & discovering'along the way, and he found a 12 inch kitchen knife someone had hidden-stashed-in the roots of a tree along the path- anytime your secluded, alone- your very vulnerable.i never walked that path after dark!risky enough in daylite. but it was so peaceful n beautifull!!!oscar my boys buddy, lived in the house next to rockn j's with his brother carlos, these kids are now 15 to 20-the time when selling dope n stealing starts for a lot of the locals-they have nothing else to do...so all n all, go n have a good time,tell those boys hi for me,and i miss them, and santiago is doing great in colombia. go ask for ruth at the AZUL MARIPOSTA suveneer shop at the 'parkasitto' on the main drag thru town, mention me and my wife(monica)to her and she may be a good contact for you- she's a straight , hard workn dedicated gal.give her my love. hope you have fun!!! be carefull!!!mac. PS-we were robbed in our cabin while sleeping one night-the door KICKED IN! 2 dudes with knives burst in, i was screaming holding my bike out in front of me, my wife n boy screaming on the bed...they thought i was alone, i think the folks running the place were involved, thinking the gringo probably had a wallet full of cash. all they got was my sons brand new school uniform n shoes. the owners tried to ignore my banging on their door and pleading for help, i had to literally grab a shovel and beat the hell out of the door to get a response. from then on i made a SPEAR and put a bed against the door wherever i slept.after all these different-and more- things, i got a permit and a pistol...wish i had it from the get-go--- remember, if you fight you could get hurt or even killed- believe me-it happens & frequently...keep the kids close- dont show your cash, dont isolate yourself if possible. use common sense... SEE ya!!!

May 16, 2016

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Kynama

I want to buy property in the Puerto Viejo region. Can you recommend a real estate agent? I will be there next Spring

August 01, 2015

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Puerto Viejo Satellite

Our real estate page lists a number of agents operating in the area so feel free to browse that list and contact them.

August 03, 2015

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Harry

Hey,
Not really a comment but a question. I am thinking about retiring here.How are the resources for medical and dental care? I am 68 my wife is 71.
Thanks.

July 16, 2015

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mac williams

i dont think there's even a clinic in puerto-the hospital and pharmacies are 70 miles away in limon, and if the road washes out you may be trapped for weeks.

May 25, 2016

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